Anyhow, long story short, I ordered the Tank Controller from Neptune Systems, the full Apex system, but added the moonlights, and being lazy, I also ordered the breakout kit for the inputs. What this means is I don't need to hand-build the controllers for the ATO.
For those who are interested, the plan originally (before I ordered the Apex), was to buy 110v-safe float switches (x3), a switch, an outlet (single, hard to find at the BB hardware stores, but simple enough if your willing to search around a bit at the not-so-large, or the electrical supply houses), a bunch of electrical cord (I actually have a bunch of the right cable around the house, but it's round, rubber coated, and 15amp rated, don't remember the exact style, but the NEC lists it if you check those specs), and a decent box to mount the switch and outlet in (two-gang new work metal would work well).
Now, bear in mind this hasn't been built, it's just the original plan. And while this should work, if you don't understand what the NEC is, you shouldn't even attempt this, if you do know, then please still be careful, you are dealing with line voltage here, I'd recommend getting an electrician to do your main wiring, just on general principal.
Okay, so it's a simple build, you take the two gang box, wire some of the lead to the plug, running the correct lines through the switch (this switch is your failsafe, you turn this one OFF, BEFORE you unplug the setup to do maintenance or any other work on it. Follow the manufacturers instructions on how to install the switch). Then run the Neutral and ground wires (Yes, any home build should ALWAYS be grounded, not only does it make it safer, it also means you don't need to concern yourself with buying a special pump that is double-insulated to deal with grounding issues internally, which means safer and often cheaper pumps) direct through to the outlets. You then take the Live/Hot wire (I should point out here, that this build is for 110v, so US standard, those running on 220v mains, you will need to adjust accordingly), and run it through your first float switch, this switch sits in your sump, and will disengage (open) when the water gets too low for your pump to safely run. You then run the line through your next "safety" float, this one opens when the water level gets too high on the tank. Then, lastly, you run the line through the minimum level switch, this float should activate only when the water level in the tank gets low and you need to top of. All floats run in series, so if any opens, it disables the entire pump as a safety. Then run the wire into the Live/Hot on the outlet.
Now, the above setup could trigger your ATO too frequently, it's a known issue, but if you handle it right, then your tank will stay full, though you might go through more pumps than you expect.
The new plan, now that the TC has been ordered, is to keep the three floats, same positions as above (sump for low level in sump, tank for max level safety, and tank for when the water gets low. However the plan is if the max level and the sump are showing clear for the tank to be filled, the ATO would trigger the pump to run for one minute (perhaps more, it will depend on what the float switches for the tank will let me do), then the TC would wait two minutes before re-checking the low level float sensor.
Now the plumbing arrangements are the same between the two systems.
I have a 5 gallon bucket, with lid, the lid has two holes drilled into it (using a holesaw of around 1 1/4-1 1/2 inches, your system will need difference sizes depending on your power cords and your outflow pipe), one hole I use to run the power cord for the submersible pump, and the outflow pipe to go to the tank, the other hole is so I can easily refill the bucket (have a small pail that I have been using to add water to the tank, that and a clean food-safe funnel (check your plastics *grin*), is how I'll be refilling the bucket. Also, there's enough space around the bucket, if I get real lazy in the future, or get really rich, I might just plumb in an inflow water pipe, and a doser for handling the chemicals to make the water safe (yeah, told you I was lazy *grin*).
The outflow pipe I'll be adding a small U bend into the piping to hook over the edge of the tank, and just because I'm paranoid I have a small check valve in the pipe so I can't do something stupid like drain the tank after just loading it up from the sump....
As mentioned, it's a fairly simple setup, but it should handle the job for the time being. I'll have to deactivate the setup when doing water changes, as pulling the water from one end while dumping it in the other, will just be a hassle as I won't be sure I'm pulling only "old" tank water. I've got some pictures, will be posting them shortly to put counter points to the article.
Edit (2012-02-29): I've added some pictures of the setup below, more to come, but those will relate to a different article.